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LÜBECK - NORTH GERMANY

BY ALICE PEPLOW

On the Northeast coast of Germany, within the region of Schleswig Holstein and a mere 3 hours from Denmark, sits the city of Lübeck. The intriguing skyline is dominated by Gothic Brick architecture and the seven Church steeples which rise out of the central island of the city. The lively city’s cobblestone streets are traversed daily by locals and tourists alike, as the city boasts opportunities for culture, history, and shopping. Though it is home to 214,420 inhabitants, made even more cosmopolitan by its efficient transport links to the nearby metropolis of Hamburg, Lübeck boasts hidden corners of calm and contemplation in the form of secluded alleyways and courtyards nuzzled between buildings in the Old Town. Often these small green spaces feature stunning flowers, fruit trees, assorted plant pots in bright colours and are a source of pride for the Lübeckers who diligently maintain them. 

Considering the size of the central part of Lübeck, if offers a surprisingly diverse collection of museums and activities. If you want a cultural afternoon of absorbing historical facts about the city, a former centre of trade which was established in the 12th century, then take your pick of the Holstentor Museum, Hansemuseum and the museums which commemorate the lives of Lübeck’s three nobel prize winners: Thomas Mann, Willy Brandt and Günther Grass. However, it is also very pleasant just to wander the streets and take in the buildings, such as Mann’s ‘Buddenbrooks’ house, before stopping off at the Niederegger Marzipan Shop and Cafe to take a break from the drizzle and piercing wind of Northern Germany. Lübeck is famous for its marzipan, which Mann himself described as being ‘anything but trivial’, rather a ‘remarkable’ and ‘mysterious’ confection. The Niederegger shop lures in customers with its impressive edible sculptures of local landmarks, such as the unofficial symbol of the city, the Holstentor, and novelty recreations of food stuffs such as christmas hams and corn on the cob.

Be sure to head to the Northern Gate of the city to look out over the port, after admiring the Heiligen Geist Hospital, which is home to one of the defining elements of the Christmas period in all parts of Germany: Weihnachtsmärkten. Tucked away by the Hansemuseum and port is a small independent cafe called ‘Fräulein Brömse’ which is quiet but charming, with a freshly baked selection of cakes and authentic lemon cheesecake.  If you are in the mood for a more filling meal then an affordable option is ‘Das Flammkuchenhaus’ on Fleischhauerstraße. Though Flammkuchen seem similar to a pizza on first glance they have a much thinner, crispier base and this is the perfect place to try them!

Finally, a trip up the St Petri Kirche tower is not to be missed in order to experience the city from above and point out all the iconic sites, like the Town Hall and the St Marienkirche, the interior of which features striking macabre stained glass windows and the particularly captivating Astronomical Clock.

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